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Staggering Mayan monuments intensify a mystery that hangs in the air: the Mayan Civilisation dominated much of Central America from the fifth until the eighth centuries. The Spanish conquistador Cortés then overran Guatemala in the 17th century. The country enjoyed comparative stability after independence, but eventually slid into an exceptionally savage civil war between right-wing military governments and leftist guerrilla movements.
Even Guatemala's cities have been subject to cataclysm. Three attempts to establish a capital, before Guatemala City was founded in 1775, were thwarted by battles with indigenous warriors and repeated earthquakes. But nature has also formed astonishing sights, including volcanic peaks, subtropical forests and sulphurous lakes. Orchids spring out of soil, exotic creatures roam it and colourful birds soar above it.
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